As we waited for the Shackleton to return from South Georgia the weather that had made their journey from the Falklands so uncomfortable brought us an unexpected amount of snow. Unfortunately this was combined with high winds that made working outside all but impossible. When it eventually abated we were able to travel around the island, although progress was hampered by the tendency to get stuck in high drifts and to fall between tussock into waist-deep snow. On the rocky slopes of La Roche and Gazella the wind had sculpted the snow into long, sinuous ridges that glittered in the sunlight and formed deep cornices above the paths.

Eventually the ship returned, though the swell was still to great for her to launch the cargo tender. Over the course of two days cargo was transferred on and off base using smaller boats. It is a credit to the tenacity of the ship’s crew that the relief operations were completed successfully with all supplies apart from a small number of fuel drums being delivered. It was soon time for the departing personnel to be transferred on board. For Ruth this meant the end of two and a half years on the island. Her dedication to her work and to the animals had been extraordinary and it was clearly an emotional wrench for her to leave. Fortunately the prospect of a voyage South to the Antarctic peninsula did go some way towards softening the blow and it was with a sense of anticipation and excitement that Ruth, Jen, Jon, Iain and I boarded the ship.

From Bird Island the Shackleton was bound Signy, a small base in the South Orkney Islands. It was here that we would collect its 5 members of staff and help to close up the station for the winter, during which time it would be unmanned. Signy provides a base for staff studying wildlife (mostly penguins) and also glaciology and climatology.

For the first two days of or trip heavy swell and strong winds made for slow progress. The ship’s crew demonstrated their characteristic hospitality and welcomed us aboard enthusiastically. Unfortunately the Shackleton is notorious for her uncomfortable action in big seas and Jen and Iain were soon laid low by mal de mere. I was more fortunate and found that the bridge offered the best views on board, a good coffee machine and excellent company in the form of the Captain and his officers. This was also the ideal place to be when, a couple of days later, we came to dense pack ice. Earnest Shackleton has an ice-strengthened hull and is ideally suited for breaking her way through the pack. I watched with fascination as her bow rose and fell, carving a path through the ice, which crashed and splintered against her hull. With the ice came wildlife and my first glimpse of leopard seals. These impressive predators are winter visitors to Bird Island, where they can often be seen hunting penguins close to shore. They could be seen from the ship as they rested on the ice-floes, raising their head lazily and fixing us with a crocodilian stare as we passed by. Crabeater and Fur Seals could also slept comfortably on the ice. Often the ship would pass quite near before the seals woke and with a sudden panic, launched themselves into the water to avoid being crushed beneath the hull as we steamed on. Penguins were also thrown into confusion as we approached. The ones we passed now were mostly Adele penguins. Smaller and stouter than the Gentoos who had been our neighbours on Bird Island. Unlike the seals, the penguins were quick to spot the approaching ship. Alarm would spread rapidly through a group as they stood sentinel on the floating ice. Alarm became panic as we came nearer and soon the first penguin would break ranks and make a dash for the water. This lead to complete pandemonium as the remaining birds waddled frantically after them, often falling and sliding on their bellies, a riot of penguins crashing into one another as they sought refuge in the ocean. Generally we came no closer than a few hundred meters to these groups, but still the chaos was the same. Once in the water their confidence was restored and we often saw them porpoising gracefully alongside the ship, hunting for krill and seemingly unperturbed by our presence.